Farm-to-table fusion at Highlands Tavern
Words by Emily Davis | Photography and Videography by Courtney Snyder
“Hey, come on in! Sit wherever you like,” calls the amiable bartender. It’s 5 PM and eager patrons pour into Highlands Tavern. The next visitor is greeted by name as Chef Kim Vos bustles through the dining room and recognizes one of her regulars. Tables begin to fill rapidly, even though the restaurant has just opened for the evening. As servers joke with their customers, it’s readily apparent that everyone knows one another. It was on this Monday that I found my new favorite haunt.
The tavern began as the brainchild of Vos, who asked co-owner Ryan Aydelotte to collaborate in 2022. Post-pandemic, the private club that had once occupied the space was now closed. With the public seeking inviting, sociable spaces once again, Vos and Aydelotte seized the opportunity. “We wanted to create a warm, old-school tavern, but with a unique twist,” Aydelotte tells me. “Kim is really the visionary behind this place. She’s an incredibly talented person, so I decided to just let her do her thing, and it turned out amazing.”
Glancing around the restaurant, I can see evidence of that creative drive in every detail. The walls are papered and lacquered in something that I later learn consists of bags torn into pieces and adhered to the wall to create a cocooning, almost leathery effect. Wine bottles line the walls, and an enormous fish pays homage to Western North Carolina’s fly fishing culture. Even the restrooms are adorned in Vos’s quirky, artistic flair, with the vanity crafted out of a desk inherited from her grandmother.
The entire establishment is a testament to an artist’s vision, curated to create a cozy hangout for locals and a memorable experience for visitors. Located in the heart of downtown, across 4th Street from Old Edwards Inn, this is the type of place you wander into searching for a drink and a respite from the action — and find yourself reminiscing about it years later.
I soon discovered that the decor and ambiance aren’t the only inspired aspects of the place. Vos’s creative drive prompted her to curate a menu offering high-quality, farm-to-table cuisine that fits perfectly with the upscale Highlands scene yet also feels accessible and just the right amount of trendy.
“She creates dishes with brilliant flavor profiles," Aydelotte expounds. “We serve up foods that are locally sourced but with a subtle Indian or Asian twist.”
“I’d call it farm-to-table ethnic fusion,” Vos agrees. “We have our staples on the menu, of course, so that we can always provide those customer favorites. But we switch it up a lot to keep it interesting. Once or twice a week, we add new specials, creating something new that suits the season and makes use of the produce and meat that we source locally. We also bake fresh breads in-house daily.”
Farm-to-table cuisine focuses on the health and superior flavor of locally acquired provisions and environmental sustainability. When produce is trucked over from a local farm rather than a corporate operation thousands of miles away, the impact of fuel use and emissions produced is minimized. Local economies are boosted, too, as smaller-scale farmers reap the rewards of increased demand for their harvest. True to this concept, even the disposable dishes at Highlands Tavern are composed of rapidly replenishable, fully compostable bamboo.
Explaining the restaurant’s evening-only hours, Vos shares that with kitchen space limited, the Tavern simply does not possess the storage necessary to provide full-day operations. But she has brilliantly transformed what could have been a handicap into a strength. A smaller refrigeration unit means more frequent, and therefore fresher, food deliveries. Ongoing order placement and changing availability of ingredients necessitate innovation, contributing to more eclectic and dynamic specials. Vos’s creativity runs rampant as she churns out one original dish after another.
The burger is undoubtedly one of the best I’ve ever had. Ground brisket and short rib, sourced from a nearby farm in Franklin, is topped with tomato confit, smothered with Gruyère, and accented with arugula, house pickles, and black garlic aioli. It’s massive, it’s delicious … and it’s gone in about five minutes. It’s that good.
Other menu standouts include the 205 wedge salad, which doesn’t skimp on the blue cheese or bacon jam, and the yellowfin tuna tartare with a zingy sesame chili sauce. Both dishes feature the right blend of accessibility and imagination; diners can try something that feels familiar but with just enough originality to take taste buds on an adventure. And, rumor has it that the Tavern Jerky is legendary. If you head out for drinks and appetizers with friends, be prepared to scuffle over it — or perhaps just order your own.
“My goal is to pack as much flavor and uniqueness into every dish as possible and provide something exciting and a little different in Highlands,” Vos explains. “I wanted this place to be not just a spot to eat and hang out but an experience.”
The tavern’s Instagram page portrays the chef’s vision come to life, with customers leaving enthusiastic reviews underneath vibrant photos of weekly specials. “Easily the best food in Highlands,” one raves. “Beyond delicious!” exclaims another. Many punctuate their comments with grinning or drooling smiley faces, and the “fire” emoji dominates conversations.
Regulars make themselves known with praise like, “It was AMAZING … as always. So excited to be there tonight!” Some identify the tavern as their favorite place to eat in Highlands.” Vacationers wistfully report that they can’t wait to return.
“We’ve definitely seen a lot of repeat business,” Aydelotte recalls. “Obviously, we have our locals who show up frequently. But we’ve met so many visitors who love the food and come back each time they’re in town.”
In addition to serving up an inspired menu, the Highlands Tavern offers a friendly vibe that is thoughtfully nurtured by Vos. Upbeat rock music sets the scene, and the bar’s televisions — placed on the perimeter rather than center stage — play a variety of movies, nature shows, and even cartoons.
“We made a conscious choice with the ambiance, not to play the news or sports,” Vos illuminates. “There’s plenty of that in other places. We wanted to create a place where people come together and connect.” And you can certainly do that; while space is limited, the layout manages to feel cozy, not cramped, and the enormous, full-service bar is expertly staffed by savvy bartenders.
With the restaurant open until 11 PM, plan to stay awhile, enjoy a truly bespoke cocktail, gab with your neighbors, and make new friends. You would need a hollow leg to try every tempting option on the menu in one visit, but luckily, the town’s hippest hotspot is open five nights per week. Eventually, you can taste it all. Whether you’re a Plateau local or an adventuring tourist, Highlands Tavern is guaranteed to thrill your taste buds time and again.
For more information about Highlands Tavern, follow them on Instagram @highlands_tavern or visit Highlandstavern.com.