The lagoon of Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort. © MONTE-CARLO Societe des Bains de Mer. Montecarlosbm.com.
If coastal destinations were the Olympics, the French Riviera would win gold
Words by Ellen Jones
Ah, the French Riviera, where azure skies flirt with crystal-clear waters, Belle Époque cities, and postcard-perfect landscapes. As summer casts its golden glow upon this enchanting coastline, the allure of the Côte d’Azur becomes irresistible.
From Cannes’ legendary Croisette and the razzle-dazzle of Monte Carlo to the sleepy towns of Èze and Menton, the Cote d’Azur does high-octane glamor and rustic charm in equal measures.
If you’re in Paris for the Olympics or just planning a European escape, a French Riviera tour is an absolute must. It’s less than a nine-hour drive from Paris, or just a quick hour-and-a-half flight from there to Nice. Whether you hire a car and leisurely drive the coastal route along its chicest ports of call, or choose a handful of destinations, you’re in for a tantalizing blend of culture, fine foods, and unadulterated Provençal beauty.
Le Chantecler at Le Negresco. Photo courtesy of Le Negresco. Hotel-negresco-nice.com.
Nice
Promenade Strolls and #Rivieragoals
With Monaco and Menton to the East and Cannes and Saint Tropez to the west, Nice is the Côte d’Azur’s Ground Zero. Make this vibrant coastal city your landing base, and from here, pick your path to Riviera bliss.
Nestled between the twinkling Med and rugged Riviera hills, Nice marries seaside elegance and vibrant urban culture. First up, a stroll along the iconic Promenade des Anglais. This is where palm-fringed boulevards and Belle Époque architecture evoke the glamor of a bygone era. Bag a lounger or table for lunch at the stylish Plage Beau Rivage Nice beach club.
The old town of Vieux Nice’s labyrinthine alleyways begs to be explored. Colorful façades and bustling markets evoke Provence’s medieval past. At Cours Saleya market, you can pick up lavender and antiques.
Discover the artistic legacy of the region at the Musée National Marc Chagall and the Musée Matisse. Masterpiece paintings, drawings, and engravings by these renowned artists illuminate the walls with a symphony of color and emotion.
No visit to Nice would be complete without a visit to Castle Hill, a scenic oasis perched high above the city. Ascend to the summit and be rewarded with panoramic views that stretch from the waters of the Med to the rugged mountains of the hinterland.
Where to stay? Smack-dab on the Promenade des Anglais, Le Negresco is Belle Époque glamor on steroids. From its lavish suites adorned with priceless antiques to its Michelin-starred Le Chantecler restaurant, Le Negresco is Nice’s quintessential hotel.
Château Eza's 1 Michelin Starred Restaurant overlooking the French Riviera. Photo courtesy of Château Eza. Chateaueza.com
Èze
Medieval Majesty
Heading east along the coast from Nice, Èze is an enchanting hilltop enclave that’ll whisk you back to the days of knights and troubadours. Lose yourself along its ancient cobblestones and ivy-covered buildings amidst the quaint boutiques, art galleries, and charming cafés.
For a taste of local history and culture, visit the Chapelle de la Sainte Croix, a 14th-century chapel that boasts stunning frescoes and breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Or, explore the ruins of the ancient Èze Castle, which offers a fascinating glimpse into the village’s rich and storied past.
Left: Exploring Monaco at night. Right: Casino de Monte-Carlo. Photos courtesy of © MONTE-CARLO Société des Bains de Mer. Montecarlosbm.com.
Monaco
The Jewel of the Riviera
Needing little introduction, glitz and glamour reign supreme in Monaco. This itty-bitty principality is where Lamborghinis purr, roulette tables spin, and haute couture glistens in the Mediterranean sun.
Gaze in wonder at the mega-yachts bobbing in the harbor before people-watching over at Alain Ducasse’s Riviera Lunch at his triple-starred Le Louis XV. Then, retreat to the tranquil oasis of the Jardin Exotique, where exotic succulents flourish and tumble over the cliff edge overlooking the cerulean sea.
If high-stakes gambling is your thing, indulge in a bet or two at the iconic Casino de Monte-Carlo, where the spirit of James Bond lingers amid the roulette tables and baccarat salons.
An evening in Menton, France.
Menton
A Picturesque Paradise
The antithesis of Monaco, neighboring town Menton is all understated elegance. Sleepier and possibly more seductive, it borders Italy. You could be forgiven for thinking you’re there, with its pastel pink and lemon-hued houses clustering down the hill to the water’s edge, Amalfi Coast-style.
Away from the crowds of Nice and Monaco, get stuck into exploring the nooks and crannies of Menton’s old town. Cerrutti-Maori’s trompe-l’œil paintings in Saint-Michel Archangel Basilica will take your breath away.
Jean Cocteau fell in love with Menton’s enchanting landscapes. His work is celebrated in not one but two museums, the Jean Cocteau Bastion Museum and the Jean Cocteau Museum — Séverin Wunderman Collection.
Left: View from Cap d'Antibes Beach Hotel's Michelin-starred, Les Pêcheurs restaurant. Right: A pink paradise on the beach at Cap d'Antibes Beach Hotel. Photos courtesy of Cap d'Antibes Beach Hotel. Capdantibes-beachhotel.com.
Antibes
A Coastal Canvas
Just over half an hour’s drive west of Nice, Antibes — like Menton — is rich with artistic history. After all, this is the place that captivated Picasso, Monet, and de Staël. F. Scott Fitzgerald summered here, taking residency at the Villa Saint Louis. So, why did Antibes capture the hearts and imagination of so many illustrious artists? In short: it’s stunning. Think alluring beaches, ancient stone walls that glow gold in the sun, and a gorgeous harbor with sailboats and superyachts alike.
Unlike many Riviera beaches, Antibes’ are sandy. A horseshoe-shaped stretch framed by the city’s medieval ramparts, Plage de la Gravette is perfect for a mid-exploring dip. Afterward, indulge in handmade foie gras and local sea bass tartare for lunch at the exquisite Maison de Bacon which overlooks the sea.
For a post-lunch leg stretch, you could head to the bustling Marché Provençal to explore the vibrant stalls selling fresh produce, fragrant spices, and artisanal crafts and pick up a souvenir or two to take home. Or, take a scenic stroll along the picturesque coastline of Cap d’Antibes. Follow the winding coastal path past rugged cliffs, secluded coves, and luxurious villas.
TheCarlton Cannes. Photo courtesy of Carlton Cannes. Carltoncannes.com.
Cannes
Cinematic Splendor
Another Côte d’Azur icon, Cannes is the epitome of Riviera sophistication. Naturally, all eyes are on this city each year for the Cannes Film Festival, but this once-fishing village retains its sparkle all year round.
Perhaps no boulevard is more famous than The Promenade de la Croisette. Lined with palm trees, luxury boutiques, and chic cafés, this 1.8-mile, palm-fringed promenade is Cannes’ beating heart. Shop the new season’s collections at Prada, Ralph Lauren, and Celine before drinking a pit-stop James Bond cocktail at Harry’s Bar at la Croisette’s end.
For a soupçon of cinematic glamor, ascend the red-carpeted steps of the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. This is where movie stars and industry luminaries gather each year to celebrate the art of cinema in style.
Fresh from a luxurious new refurb, the Carlton Cannes presides over the Mediterranean like a regal grande dame. This swish, history-laden hotel was where Alfred Hitchcock filmed To Catch a Thief with Grace Kelly and comes complete with a gym, spa, beach club, and three top restaurants.
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The Parfumerie Galimard. Photo courtesy of Galimard. Galimard.com.
Grasse
The World’s Perfume Capital
As you drive inland from Cannes, the glitz and glam fade in your rear-view mirror, and the pastoral charm of Grasse emerges. This insanely pretty town is regarded as the perfume capital of the world. Why? Fields and fields of fragrant tuberose, jasmine, geraniums, irises, and roses surround the town.
Grasse itself oozes Provençal charm and olfactory overload. Weave around its medieval cobblestone streets and hop from perfumery to perfumery. Galimard and Molinard are Grasse mainstays that still cultivate and blend their fragrances using centuries-old traditions. Fragonard even offers tours around its factory and bottling shop. Here, you can learn their manufacturing techniques and the history of their precious perfumes.
Byblos Beach Restaurant at Hotel Byblos Saint-Tropez. Photos courtesy of Hotel Byblos Saint-Tropez. Byblos.com.
Saint-Tropez
Riviera Chic Personified
Saint-Tropez’s sun-drenched beaches and vibrant nightlife have beckoned the jet-set elite from around the globe since Brigitte Bardot landed there in the 1950s. Her legacy and allure remain at Pampelonne Beach, where bronzed bodies lounge upon plush sunbeds and crystal-clear waters lap against the shore.
Of course, nowhere is Saint-Tropez’s mystique more mythologized than at the legendary Club 55. Here, you’ll rub shoulders with A-listers and socialites as you chow down on your Ramatuelle puff pastry and chilled rosé.
But it’s not all attention-seeking antics and flash fancy, Saint-Tropez is full of hidden charms. Explore its historic heart along the charming old town streets. Narrow alleys are awash with traditional Provençal houses, art galleries, and boutiques like Le Civette and FRED.
Featuring over 35,000 specimens, The Butterfly Museum is a gem tucked away in the ancient Gardens Quarter. Then for an authentic Saint-Tropez experience, amble five minutes to the quaint Place des Lices, where locals gather for boules. Saturday is market day, so grab fresh pastries, herbs, and cheese.
The Carlton Beach Club at Carlton Cannes. Photo by Romeo Balancourt, courtesy of Carlton Cannes. Carltoncannes.com.
The French Riviera: Know Before You Go
- Nice Côte d’Azur Airport is the main gateway to the French Riviera. Flying from the American East Coast requires a connecting flight from London Heathrow, or you can fly directly to Nice from Paris.
- Consider renting a car to explore the region independently. Heli Air Monaco offers helicopter tours and transfers from Nice to Monaco.
- Pack light, breathable clothing suitable for warm Mediterranean weather, including swimwear for beach days.
- Bring comfortable walking shoes for navigating cobblestone streets and coastal paths.
- Learn a few basic French phrases.
- Sought-after restaurants and beach clubs get booked up in the peak summer season, so make your reservations in advance.