Sizzling Rivalry

Hype or Hogwash?

Is there a meaningful merit in all this barbecue rivalry? Or is it all just, well, hogwash? If the diverse and purist approaches of these modern-day smokehouses are anything to go by, it’s a pleasing mixture of both.

Found in Dillsboro, Waynesville, and Franklin, Haywood Smokehouse’s three locations are almost as Western North Carolina as you can get. But for owner, Will Beasley, his approach to barbecue is not limited to its locale. “We pick what we like from each region,” says Beasley, emphasizing his eclectic take on barbecue. “The only meat we cook with sauce is our baby back ribs, typically served on Saturdays. We prefer them that way. However, for our pork butt, we steer away from the traditional Eastern Carolina vinegar style.”

If its popularity is anything to go by, Haywood is doing something right. Ranked #1 on Yelp’s Top Brisket Spots in the US and Canada, Haywood draws hungry carnivores from across state lines: “We actually have people who drive over from Knoxville just to get lunch,” says Beasley.

Heading down southwest to Highlands, Highlands Smokehouse takes a more purist approach. With over 20 years in business, (and the proud owner of the largest underground pit in the country), this roadside smokehouse certainly doesn’t like to mess with good, honest tradition.

“Our cooking style is more Western North Carolina,” says owner Bryan Lewis who bought the smokehouse four years ago. “We use hickory and oak to smoke our meats. We do brisket, pork, chicken, half chicken, ribs, and sausage, but don’t do the whole hog. The only deviation from our Western North Carolina style is our brisket, which is more of a Texas style.”

With a long heritage as a smokehouse, Cashiers Valley Smokehouse was given a new lease of life when owner Brien Peterkin took over in 2020. He has witnessed firsthand the smoky battlegrounds where folks passionately defend their regional style. “It’s funny because everyone thinks their local style is the best,” he laughs. “When we first opened, our customers would claim to know what good barbecue was because they were from Kansas City or so-and-so.”

The Great Sauce Debate

One of the biggest differences between Eastern and Western North Carolina barbecue is, of course, the sauce. Picture vinegar and tomato sauces squaring off in a tangy, sweet showdown. That’s where the real magic happens, with each sauce claiming its place in barbecue lore—one sharp and tangy, the other rich and sweet. For our smokehouse friends, however, they choose to remain democratically neutral.

Thanks to Cashiers Valley Smokehouse’s proximity to neighboring states, Peterkin explains how his barbecue joint draws from their culinary influences to create sauces that embody the flavors of those regions.

“We’re in a unique area where we border Georgia and South Carolina,” says Peterkin. “Our sauce range features a sweet tomato red, which comes from Georgia. We have a mustard sauce that’s a South Carolina style and a vinegar sauce that would be your traditional Western North Carolina.”

Located at Cashiers Farmers Market, On the Side’s pulled pork sandwiches are the stuff of local legend. But does it adhere to one style? “We have visitors who ask whether we’re eastern or western-style barbecue,” says On the Side’s Miranda Crawford. “By offering several sauce options we help them to customize their meal to their preferences. Plus, a variety of sides like collard greens, baked beans, pasta salad, coleslaw, and macaroni and cheese keep everyone happy.”

On the Side even takes saucy inspiration from their beloved canine: “Our newest option is a white barbecue sauce we’ve named Rauce Sauce,” Crawford shares enthusiastically. “It’s named after our golden retriever, Rauce, who is adored by guests at On the Side and Cashiers Farmers Market.”

Back at Haywood Smokehouse, it continues its crowd-pleasing agenda with a finger-lickin’ array of condiments. “We do an Eastern-style barbecue sauce, which is more vinegar-based,” says Beasley. “An Eastern-style vinegar-based barbecue sauce, a mustard-based Western Carolina sauce, and a ketchup-based Kansas City-style sauce. We also have a strawberry chipotle and an SOB, which is a kicked-up version of that!”

Despite its traditionalist way of barbecuing, Highlands Smokehouse recognizes its broad customer base and caters to each and every palate. “We have travelers and locals from across the country and the Southeast,” explains Lewis.” We therefore offer a variety of regional sauces. Our top four are Smoky Tex-Style, Sweet and Smokey, Carolina Vinegar and Carolina Mustard.”

The Smoking Process: Low and Slow Wins the Race

Sauces aside, Eastern and Western North Carolina barbecue touch tongs over a common philosophy: good barbecue takes time. Whether it’s a whole hog or a pork shoulder, the smoking process is all about patience and precision.

The type of wood used in the smoking process also plays a crucial role in the final flavor. Hickory and oak are the go-to North Carolina choices, providing those unmistakable robust, smoky notes that complement the rich meat.

Beasley sheds light on the Haywood Smokehouse process, which is truly a labor of love: “We close Sunday and Monday then come in on Tuesdays to fire up the smokers. They’re both on until Saturday night. Our pork butts and our briskets will cook overnight, anywhere from 12 to 18 hours.”

Given the fact that Highlands Smokehouse has the biggest underground pit in the States, they’ve got an epic dedication to the craft. “We’ve got an old grandfather pit downstairs,” says Lewis. “It’s a blocking tunnel pit and takes a while to get it heated up. It works by circulating heat and smoke through a series of chambers, allowing the meat to cook slowly and absorb that rich, smoky flavor we’re known for.”

The Verdict: Who Wins?

So, which is better: Eastern or Western North Carolina barbecue? The truth is, it’s all a matter of personal preference. Some folks swear by the tangy bite of Eastern Carolina vinegar sauce, while others can’t get enough of the sweet, smoky goodness of Western Carolina’s tomato-based sauce.

And let’s not forget that both styles have their own unique charm and tradition. Whether you’re enjoying a whole hog roast in the East or savoring a perfectly smoked pork shoulder in the West, you’re partaking in our rich culinary heritage, which has been perfected over generations.

As any NC-dweller would attest, the best barbecue is the one that brings people together. It’s about sharing a meal with friends and family, relishing the flavors of the region, and appreciating the time and effort that goes into creating our iconic Southern staple.

And remember, no matter which side you’re on, when it comes to barbecue, we’re all winners. Let’s keep the fires burning, the sauces simmering, and the debate alive because no matter which side you’re on, we can all agree that our state serves up some of the best barbecue in the world.

The barbecue debate is sizzling, and now it’s your turn to weigh in. Decide for yourself by visiting our area’s finest smokehouses.

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